Above Ground and Counting: Kayaking the Connecticut River

June 14, 2012

From the time that I came to Vermont, one of my favorite things to do was to head out in my canoe to paddle or fish. From my base in Swanton, I combined numerous outings to to canoe the Missisquoi river from Canada to Lake Champlain, the Lamoille River from Elmore to Morrisville, and sections of the Rock, Trout, Winooski, and Battenkill Rivera, as well as Lake Champlain and other lakes. After I moved to Brattleboro, I paddled some on the West and Connecticut.

I was not until I got my kayak that I decided to do a longer outing. I decided to do a solo adventure for a change and to paddle the Connecticut River from the landing in Putney to the Exit 3 bridge in Brattleboro. The paddle would be about 10-12 miles and should take from 3 to 4 hours including stops to explore. We set up a car shuttle and Anne dropped me off at the starting point, the landing in Putney.

The day was warm and clear and as I pulled away from the landing I quickly settled in to a rhythm of gentle, steady paddling and eased down the river with the current. Behind me, a solitary rower from the local rowing club, returning from his morning practice, silently guided his shell alongside the landing. Ahead of me loomed a huge tree leaning over the water. I spotted plank steps nailed to its side.High among the branches, a rope had been tied and tangled seductively above the river current. Despite the sirens call, my days of rope swings is long past. But that didn't suppress the visions of kids and young adults swinging out high over the water, laughing hysterically, releasing and plunging into the waiting waters.

I knew what a wonderful trip this would be. Rivers have history and stories to tell and I had already tasted a few. Minutes later, I saw a huge bird (eagle or osprey) carrying a fish flying upriver about 10 feet above the water. In its talons, it clutched a large fish. I only wish that I had seen the actual catch. He had positioned the fish parallel to the direction of flight with the head to the front. I read somewhere that they do this for efficiency of flight. Further down the river, another large bird flew right by my kayak. This time, I could clearly see ... it was a bald eagle.

Continuing downstream, alternating paddling and casting for bass, I leisurely drifted along allowing the river to set the pace and take me where it would. I rounded a bend and ahead of me was a small cove and a large, stone-covered sand bar. The river spoke to me and I listened. It said to me, "sandbar ... large flat stones ... driftwood and debris". The river was so demanding ... I had no choice, but to do a stacking. When I was done, I thought about another paddler ... rounding the bend ... seeing my sculpture ... and waiting patiently for the story that the river would tell!

Not every story is pleasant. There is a spot near the Exit 3 bridge that puzzles me. It appears to be discharge from an industry near the river. I had seen it before on kayak trip. The water bubbles up from below and is tainted blue-gray for the next 100 yards before it dissipates. This time there was a distinctive offensive odor. Maybe the discharge is permitted or non-toxic. I am not usually a crusader, but this time I emailed the town manager to express my concern and to show her a picture. I never got a reply. Politics!

I tried to put my concerns aside and continued my journey. When I think back on this day, I want to remember the joy and comfort the river provided. The river did not disappoint. I drifted further downstream, passing a merganser and ducklings, kingfisher, goose and goslings. Nearby, I eased up on a beaver lodge to take a look, about 20 feet away, a fox stepped out of the weeds and stopped to stare at me. Only got a pix of his tracks.