June 11, 2014
We were itching for an adventure, but lately it was touch-and-go as to rain or shine. Thus, everything we planned was a gamble as to weather. We decided to check out the lakes region of New Hampshire. Our game plan was to find a funky, retro cottage on a lake where we could kayak (and I might even fish a bit) and we would visit a historic preservation site I had found online called "Castle-in-the-Clouds. Other than that, we would just ramble and check out scenery, or perhaps happen upon a "find".
Luck was with us. For lodging, I found a neat, little, one-bedroom cottage on Little Squam Lake in Holderness, NH. Squam Lake is where "On Golden Pond" with Henry Fonda and Audrey Hepburn was filmed. It would be perfect for us. I am senile enough to do a pretty good Henry Fonda and have a great senior citizen, at-the-lake hat I could wear. Anne, meanwhile, can do a pretty good shaky-voice Hepburn.
The cottage was reminiscent of a similar cottage we found years ago at the beach. It was deemed "The Love Nest", but might more appropriately be called the roach nest. This cottage, however, was nothing like that. It was clean and full of little decorating touches that made it feel like you had stepped magically back into the 1950's. Anne instinctively over packed to assure that all available space in the cottage would be used. Years have passed since we could easily fit into a standard size bed, but we were cozy and warm. Well, I was warm. Anne did mention that it was very cool outside, but was unsuccessful in closing any of the cottage windows. At the same time, I was unsuccessful in mentioning to her that each window had a stick wedged in it to keep the window up. I love cold air at night!
We actually checked in at the cottage late in the afternoon. The weather reports called for clear to cloudy skies most of the day until close to evening so we opted to drive straight to the Castle-in-the-Clouds. Figured the views would be much better earlier. It was roughly a three hour drive from Williamsville to Moultonborough, NH. The castle is located on a 5500 acre tract in the Ossipee Mountain Range overlooking Lake Winnepesakee. A narrow, one-way road wound its way snakelike up to the Castle.
Continuing, we soon reached the parking area for the castle. Located at this level was a gift shop, restaurant, and a small art gallery. We transferred here to a trolley for the remainder of the ride up to the actual castle site. I must say that without exception, everyone who worked here was exceptionally friendly, helpful and cheerful. You don't always find this and it really makes the visit special.
At last, we arrived at the castle … it was incredible and the view phenomenal!
Castle-in-the-Clouds (or Lucknow) is a 16-room mansion built for his second wife in 1913-1914 in the craftsman style by millionaire shoe manufacturer Thomas Plant. His story in a nutshell is that he worked in the shoe factories of the day and in merely eleven years owned the company. He is somewhat credited with moving the ladies' shoe market from utilitarian to stylish and in doing so became a millionaire ($20 million that is … that's about a quarter billion in today's money). Alas, an extra-marital affair settled the fate of his first marriage, that and a diverse payoff of a million dollars. For wife number two … he built Lucknow. In it, were the best materials (Italian marble and Tiffany glass) and furnishings that money could buy … including many innovations which were rare at the time, like circular showers, interlocking kitchen tiles, a central vacuum system, and a house intercom system. He was innovative as well in providing worker benefits for those building or working at the Castle. A bad investment in Russian bonds cost him $400,000 … but no worry. Some miscalculations in investments in Asia cost him $700,000 … but no worry. However, the stock market crash of '29 cleaned him out of the remainder of the $20 million … and it was over. Fortunately for us, it was eventually purchased and preserved for us to experience.
The marble in the billiard room fireplace was exquisite.
The dome upstairs was Tiffany. There were also about 20 rondelles in windows scattered throughout the castle. These were painted by local artists.
What I wouldn't give for one of the circular showers in my house.
Everywhere you looked, things were designed uniquely … like the kitchen sink.
The views were breathtaking from practically every window … even the staff's quarters and the sewing room.
In the library, was a private hideaway for Plant to seclude himself and read uninterrupted.
Flowers and unique stonework enhanced the marvelous views of the lake and mountains.
We finished touring the castle and headed back to the restaurant area for a great lunch. Of course, the view from the restaurant deck didn't hurt anything either.
The art gallery was beside the restaurant deck where we had lunch. Showing was an exhibit by Vermont artist, Kristan Brevik. The exhibit was called, Paperwasp: Creatures Real and Imagined Sculptures.
We got ready to head for Holderness and to check in at the cottage. Before we did, there were two more stops to make. First, was the trout pond. No, I did not get to fish. But, we did feed the fish … rainbow trout that were enormous. A couple were about 3 feet long and must have weighed 25 pounds. I have never seen anything like it.
Lastly, we made a quick stop at the stables to make a few friends.
We soon arrived at the cottage just in time for the rain to begin. Colder temperatures and heavy rain promised for the next day convinced us to brave a short paddle before dinner.
It had been a long day … a great day, but long. We finished the day the way we like … with a good meal. The 6 Burner Bistro was exactly what we needed to top off the day. For me, a half-semi-boneless roasted chicken drizzled with pan sauces and herbs. I was not disappointed.
The star, however, was Anne's sesame-crusted salmon with a sweet Asian sauce.
Sweet dreams!
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